From:Dennis Henderson
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Question for Mark Hill Date:Thu Nov 12 13:02:54 2020
Response to:7462
I had a similar problem with my KJ. Starting over time was
getting harder and harder. What I found was when the old
resin in the magneto windings got hot, it was spraying
inside the magneto and gradually as it cooled off, it was
getting stickier to the point where the magneto was almost
frozen. So try disconnecting the magneto and see if its
easier to kickstart. I solved the problem by cleaning the
inside of the magneto. This is a temporary solution as at
some point my magneto will need to be replaced. Dennis

Hi Bill,
Thanks for your suggestion. Yes. the engine is free. I'm
not actually pushing the bike but I can put in into gear
and turn the wheel watching the magneto and generator
turn. This is also something that has been going on for
several years whilst still riding the bike. It has gotten
much worse though.

Imagining the bevel gears are misaligning, to cope with
it in the past Chris would rock the bike in gear to free
it up. I would give the kick start lever a few light jabs
and it would free up.


If you put the trans in gear can you push the bike and
get the motor to turn? I have not been following this
but it appears as though the trans section of the motor
is free but the crank is locked. If the upper and lower
motor cases are not very close to flat when the upper and
lower are bolted together the cases will distort and lock
the crank. Just an idea to look at.

Thanks Mark for sharing the video and your messages. I
believe the kick starter itself is working properly. I
just reconfirmed the operation.

With the clutch engaged as if going to start the bike the
lever will not budge. I literally can stand on it and it
does not move at all. Disengaging the clutch and locking
the pedal down, the kick start lever moves smoothly and
effortlessly. Releasing the clutch pedal and re-engaging
the clutch, I can once again stand on the lever without

It is as if the engine is locked up but it is not.

Areas where we have gotten bitten before are in the
centerline of the casting boss of the engine Block
to Kicker socket in the triple gear

We did a massive repair on a 1919 engine Welding/
Machining for a customer and never addressed the
Kicker mounting holes in the engine as the were one of
the only spots on the entire project that were
not damaged.

I never caught the mounting flange in the case was not in
the same axis as the "triple Gear" counter
shaft bearings.

The fix was to make a offset kicker socket housing.

The next issue to look for is to make sure the sprag
teeth completely disengage. The video I posted
shows this pretty good.

A couple other picky little issues have been the male
sprag that fits into the socket housing has to
have a minimum of .003 clearance. The flat wire spring
that goes between the two has to be in good shape
or it can cause a bind.
I think you have a alignment issue.



Please view the following video
on Henderson Kicker set up.

Although this is a 17 Henderson
the system in is really the

I will try and address areas
where we have had problems and

Hi Mark,
I asked about this before on
the forum and got a few
responses but so far nothing
worked out.
Our Streamline has a kick
starter that jambs and won't
turn the engine. I recently
began looking at it again and
still come up with a bevel gear
interference problem, perhaps
worn shims.
Everything in the gearbox
proper appears to be working as
it should and the engine itself
is free. The kick starter frees
when the clutch is disengaged
and the gearbox can go through
all the gears spinning the rear
wheel but releasing the pedal
and re-engaging the clutch
causes the starter to jamb
I'm pretty much resigned to
pulling the engine and I guess
I'm just looking for some bit
of confirmation that I'm on the
right track.
If anyone else has had this
problem I'd be happy to hear
from you too.


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