From:Steve Marks
Subject:RE: k enclosed chainguard how to mount Date:Tue Jul 5 12:33:33 2016
Response to:6275
Hi Guys
I put these notes together some years ago - may be of some interest


The chain guard on my Model K is not an original. When it arrived, it was just the sheet metalwork – I was left to sort out the brackets and holes for the front sprocket and rear axle. SO I AM NOT CLAIMING MINE TO BE 100% CORRECT! My first stop was the Model K parts list which provided the following clues.

K-586 Chain Guard Complete
K-592 Chain Guard, Upper Half
K-593 Chain Guard, Lower Half
120 Chain Guard Lower Bolt 5/16-24 x 1”
X-K-3260 Chain Guard Top Cap Bolt 5/16-24 x 1.1/16
204 Chain Guard Bolt Nut 5/16-24
303 Chain Guard Bolt Lock Washer (elsewhere in the list we see ‘303 Lock Washer 5/16” ‘)
K-5845 Chain Guard Bolt, Front, 5/16-24 x 2.23/32
X-K-3136 Chain Guard Rear Screw 5/16-24 x 1.1/32
G-6388 Chain Guard Rear Bolt Spacer
X-K-1885 Chain Guard Top Bolt Washer
K-5877 Chain Guard Front Bolt Washer

My interpretation of this parts list is shown in the photographs. A few extra notes:

1 The rear, top and lower brackets were made out of 3/4” x 1/8” metal strip. I chose to rivet them on and then brazed them on too – I thought the rivets looked ‘period’ but I have to say, may not be ‘correct’
2 The front brackets were made from 10G sheet steel which worked out to be about 1/8”
3 I added a drain screw in the lowest part of the bottom half, just in case it collected rainwater. It probably didn’t have one originally.
4 I also added an inspection cover so that I could check chain adjustment quickly and easily. It probably didn’t have one of these originally either!
5 The holes giving clearance for the rear wheel and axle were made large enough to clear everything with the wheel moved from fully forward to fully backward. On my machine, I fitted the factory made adapter cups which allow the later timken bearings to be used in place of the original ball variety. For this reason the slots in the guard are probably larger than they were originally.
6 Overall sizes can usually be scaled from photographs. My chain guard measures up at 2.1/8” wide outside measurement and the radius on the corners measure up at 1/2”. The guard looks to be made of 16G material
7 Note that there is a band approximately 3/4” wide fixed to the outside of the upper half with an overlap of approximately 3/8”which covers the joint all the way round. There are three ‘prongs’ fixed to the inside along each side of the upper half. In between these prongs there is a 90 degree fold approximately ¼” wide which serves to stiffen the long edges. There are corresponding 90 degree folds on the lower half. When the two halves are put together, the lower half is trapped between the band and the prongs. I put a bit of a bend on the prongs to make assembly easier. Hope this makes sense.

First pic shows chain guard after finishing and before painting
More to follow.......

my 1920 chainguard is a bit broken, anyone able to post piccies on how they should be joined, ie top bolts to a hole in the crankcase and to the frame towards the rear, assume the bottom attaches to the top, there's a rear point intact but front is a bit hacked about. pic is of bike, will post pics of guard in another post