From:Dave M e-mail:dave@impax.on.ca
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Exhaust valve stem lubrication Date:Sun Dec 9 10:42:30 2012
Response to:4415
For Deluxe I use ford 3.8 litre v6 exhaust valves for both intake and exahust and regrind the od, cut them down and drill a pin hole. The stems are 11/32. They are 2 piece friction welded with the stem hardedend steel. If you get reground ones they are usually chromed stems and the head stainless. I have many thousands of miles on this type of valve job and the little evidence of wear and still no scorching or leakage that I can detect even after extream temparatures and many hours of high speed work. Those valves work in very extreme conditions with no lube other than the graphite in the guides. I had a lot of trouble with valves burning but with this combo never any issues.

One very important think is proper valve spring pressure. Tom Fickau's springs are the best bar none in my opinion. The valve heads must shed heat or they will melt. Good springs and a narrow seat width make this happen well. Modern pressed in valve seats help a lot along with a good valve job that includes a fairly narrow (1/16" wide max.) valve seat width. I like a 30 degree seat with a 15 degree top and a 60 throat. The larger stems also help by being more heat conducting surface to the cylinder and more bearing surface so longer wear life. I choose not to use any assembly lube at all there and only regular motor oil anywhere else. I am concerned that any lube on the guides might burn away and leave residue behind. It works well for me...

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Guys, Thank you all. I typically use Torco assembly lube when building an engine. I was thinking of a super lube for the harsh conditions that the valve stems have to live with. I do like the hard chrome stem idea !
I have been doing some research with lubes from Schaeffer. They have some high temp moly graphite synthetic greases that might do the job for the one time lube. Their extreme temp grease can withstand 900F ! If anyone is interested, I can post some links.
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Mark, do you have a source for Hendrson valves with hard chrome stems?

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John,

We used type 40 or G2 cast iron. we ran our exhaust guides the same as
Dave Molnar, .004. Intakes at .003. This is a little tighter than normal and
tighter than Henderson specs which I believe are .006 exhaust and .004
intake. Whatever you do, you have to run a hard chrome stem valve. That
is the key as there is no real good lubrication. We also did periodically
paste the valve stems with bell ray engine assembly lubricant. We suffered
no issues whatsoever with valves. If you want to check out some exotic
valve guide material, MS 90, go to the Cannonball website and read
through my blog postings. This is the stuff that i will be using from now on.
It is expensive but it allowed us to tighten things up even more.
Remember, you've got to use a hard chrome stem.

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John, Are you talking about initial assembly? If so why not use an assembly
lube
available at most speed shops or even Heaven forbid your local Hardley
Ableson
shop? Mark and others must know the perfect formula. Do you have cast
iron
guides and Kibblewhite? valves? Old school is white assembly grease. ?
What
did the cannonballers use?

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Do you guys have a recommended grease to use when assembling
exhaust
valves in the guides? A lot of heat and no lube is not a good thing.