From:pat e-mail:work 1000 @earthlink,net
Subject:RE: RE: RE: Gas Leak Date:Mon Oct 16 21:37:48 2006
Response to:1317
Actually old DOug Burnett Of indisn fame tought me to use the ol'ladys dryer with no heat and use foam to wrap it with then after all is clean I use the sealer in the dryer again for thirty mins.
pat

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Hi Guys
I had a tank a while back which had internal rust problems. It was suggested to me that I threw in a few nuts and bolts and shake the tank about to free up the loose rust. After a few minutes of shaking, your arms start to ache....
I got round the problem a different way. A friend of mine has a business which offers a 'rumbling' service. Basically batches of machined components are tipped into a shaking drum filled with small abrasive stones. The gyratory action cleans off all the burrs and/or gives a dull polish depending on the type of abrasive stones used. I think they use the same technigue to polish gem stones in jewelry making. After discussion with him, the decision was made to use a ceramic cone shaped stone - about 3/8" - 1/2" tall. A couple of handfuls of these were put into the tank together with a spoonful of the soapy, slightly oily lubricant used in the rumbling process. To provide the rumbling motion,I used an electric cement mixer. The tank was strapped across the mixer's drum opening with a couple of elastic bungee straps and the mixer left to run for a while. Then I turned the tank round and ran again. I did about twenty minutes on each of the four tank sides - no aching arms and I got on with something else in the meantime! Then it was time to empty everything out. The stones came out easy enough - I was amazed at the amount of loose rust flakes that came with them! It reached the stage where I just could not get the last few bits of rust out. I could hear them falling about inside the tank but couldn't shake them out of the small filler cap opening. Got round this problem by by fixing the vacuum cleaner (not the household one!) to the filler cap opening and removing the bung in the the petrol tap opening to allow a passage of air through the tank. Switch on the vacuum cleaner shake the tank about a bit and hey presto - one empty tank! The end result was 100% successful - a good clean surface with not a sign of rust anywhere. Then ready to clean/coat with the Red Kote as per Rob's suggestions.
Thought some of you might find this useful - Steve

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Hi Doug,

Google: Red Kote, thats what I use, no problems.

try to find the source of the leak. Sometimes its originating from the petcock threads and working its way under the paint.(different fix) I like to use a small bit of rubber tubing in the gas line to isolate engine vibration as well. I think I read it in a dealers bulletin once before. If not Red Kote sealing from the inside will probably take care of it. You can also cut 3/4 around the bubble with an exacto knife enought to expose a pin hole, if thats what you have and use a dab of JB on it after the Red Kote. then carefully glue the flap of paint back.
You won't get the tank hot enough to do any type of welding (that will be any good) without destroying the paint.

You may recontour your eyebrows using the flame method.

Just a few suggestions,

Let us know how you make out

Rob Olsen



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My right side gas tank has developed a leak on the flat bottom portion of the tank. There is a bubble in the paint about 2-1/2" in diameter. What would be the recommended way of repairing the leak without destroying the rest of the paint on the tank? Wet towels on the tank and Aluma Weld? Just plain exopy?

Where can I obtain the good tank sealer? The purple stuff.
ACEdoug