From:ken lee
E-Mail:<kenlinuk@yahoo.com>
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: henderson hell
Response to:1061
Date:Thu Oct 20 13:49:42 2005
A kind word about being towed on a bike , I have been towed
and towed another bike (not at the same time) and to save
any dissasters DO NOT tie a tow rope to the towed bike ,
thread it through the forks , as near central as possible ,
bring it back over the handlebar , wrap it once round the
bar then hold it between your hand and the bar , then IF
there is a problem  (by the one being towed)you can let go
of the bar and free wheel to a safe stop , tieing the tow
rope to your bike can see you sitting in the road looking at
your bike being dragged away from you ,
 Anyway best wishes AND it will be well worth the pains you
are going through to sort this out when you go for a ride on
yout KJ , they are great bikes to ride !! Ken  

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Until the bearings wear in you may have to have someone tow
you.  I did that with an Indian 4 and everything worked out
after a short while of running.  Find a huge parking lot
when the cars are gone.  

If you've never been towed on a two-wheeler, get some help.






 I can kick the engine over but it takes a HARD kick to do
it, and I did have it fireing on about 3 or 4 of the
cylinders, once or twice.
best regards
Al


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Good point Dave - it's possible I guess. On a similar tack,
does the engine sit squarely on the four mounting points in
the frame? If it rocks on these, tightening the engine
mounting bolts could put a twist in the case. In the short
time this might be enough to tighten the crank. In the long
term, the resulting strain on the case could cause a
mounting point to fracture and break off. The rocking could
be caused by either a twisted pan (though you say you have a
 one so unlikely) or maybe the frame is a little twisted.
Whatever the reason, I would advise fitting spacers or
better still, file a little off the crankcase mounting point
that all rocking is eliminated. Reminds me of the dining
room table which rocks on it's four legs. All you have to do
trim a little off the longest leg and check again. If it
still rocks keep repeating the process until it sits square.
you're good it's easy, if you're not so good you end up
with a low coffee table....... :-)
Steve
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I was just wondering if it is possible that there might be
some discrepancy in the mating surfaces of the upper and
lower cases. I have heard that if there are gaps here and
there before tightening the bolts (due to case repairs) this
cause some deflection in the upper case - enough to
tighten the crank and/or the clutch hub up in their
bearings. I am sure the crank in your motor spun real nice
before the pan went on but what about after?? The motor
should turn over quite easily. If it is hard to turn I could
how there might not be enough momentum for the motor to
start even if the timing etc. is set up well, if it is
difficult to turn. Good luck and try to stay patient! it
will all be worth it in the end.>>>Dave

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I feel like I'm in Henderson Hell. Everything that could
have gone wrong at some time has. Now when reassembling the
motor [again] due to a clutch reassembly mishap, it turns
out the clutch release shaft is cracked [and of course I
don't have one]. Makes you wonder if it ever ends. Marty

 I am beginning to think that hendersons are the worst 
bike ever built! after spending a fortune on new babbit, new
ns ,reground crank, new valve gear, new (beautiful)
lower Pan, reconditioned mag, etc. (you get the picture)the
SOB is so hard to kick over, I think Im gonna have a heart
attack ATTEMPTING to start it, that "pullin the flywheel
round, with one hand" is bull ###! and still havn't had it
running! I think my 29 H-D twocam will pull it backwards!
BuT no stinkin schwinn is gonna get the best of me! I'll
have it apart again, and WILL win eventually! ( or die
trying to start it!)  I suspect the valve ( or  ignition)
timing is Off, but try and find out how to time one???
everybody tells a diffent story, but the SOB is so hard to
kick, it takes two men and a boy to find  the "E" and the 
"S"  on the fly wheel, and then guess what? you cant remove
the timing cover with the engine in the frame! So you remove
ear fender, the engine mount bolts and shift the whole
( way too heavy for a bike) engine, backwards and  hope you
get it right, not good for the paint on the frame
and if it still dont run,  go pull the engine out of your
car, its easier!!